Ten more things to like about Switzerland

There are two things that I don't want this blog to become: 1) a collection of links to things I find interesting and 2) a largely empty blog whose only posts consist of, "sorry it's been so long since my last post." I've certainly had a lot of temptation toward the former impulse and I'll admit that lately this blog has skidded perilously close to the latter. But, in the grand European tradition of taking an entire month off during the summer, let's just call the last month my "vacation" and move on.

What better way to re-start than a new take on a classic post. Here are 10 more things to like about Switzerland.

1. Health Care

Oh, man am I glad that I'm not in the US right now. The current health care "debate" has really put a spotlight on what the American political system is all about: store-bought, industry-controlled tools on one side arguing against store-bought, industry-controlled lunatics on the other. If even a single positive thing manages to emerge from this process, it will be an absolute miracle.

What's it like here? Well, Switzerland is sort of halfway between where America is and where most other European countries are. All insurers are private, there is no government option, but all plans are heavily regulated by the government. You can't be denied or charged higher rates for pre-existing conditions (your rate is determined only by your age and zip code) and all prices are published annually in the newspaper and on easy-to-use webpages. I have what would be called "catastrophic" insurance (i.e. I have a very high deductible, but pay lower monthly fees) for which I do not receive any subsidies from my employer and it costs me about what my heavily subsidized student insurance at Stanford cost. I am honestly a bit afraid about returning to the US -- unless I have a job with good insurance lined up, it is a little bit scary.

2. Nescafé

Fig. 1: Don't let the word "café" in the name fool you -- this product has never been near actual coffee beans.

Nescafé is foul, horrible, undrinkable bile invented by a dastardly misanthrope who obviously hates coffee; this is true. On the other hand, it is really easy to make. Here's how you make a cup of Nescafé: put two spoonfulls of garbage in cup, fill cup with hot water from water cooler. That's it. For the last few months, we've had a communal jar of Nescafé by the water cooler and it has become far too easy to make a cup of Nescafé. I will not call if "coffee" because it is not, but after a dozen or so tries, it becomes almost ... pleasant. Really, in the afternoon, if you aren't feeling totally re-energized by your post-lunch espresso, what can you do? You can walk all the way upstairs to the coke machine and get a coke light (which costs 1fr60) or you can walk ten feet down the hall and have a Nescafé. Both of them are bad for you, but Nescafé only stains your teeth whil Coke actively rots them, so I'm gonn go with the Nescafé. Once you've set your expectations low enough, it really isn't that bad.

3. Mountains

Fig. 2: Although this looks like the cover of an issue of Guideposts, it is actually a photo I took of the base of the Matterhorn on a cloudy morning. It really looked like the heavens were physically opening up.

Although this will come as a shock to pretty much no one, the mountains here are incredible. Beautiful, stunning, awesome -- you name it. Earlier in the summer, I went on a trip with a couple of friends to the famous Matterhorn (Le Cervin, en français) and it was unbelievable.

Fig. 3: Although most people think that it is located in Anaheim, CA, the actual Matterhorn is located near Zermatt, Switzerland on the border with Italy. I think that other than Mt. Shasta, it is one of the single coolest mountains I've ever seen.


Fig. 4: On my first visit, we stayed in a mountain hut not far from the summit. Owned by the Swiss Alpine Club, these huts are located all over the country. For a fairly small cost, you get dinner, breakfast, and a small mattress in a room with about a zillion other people. You will quickly hear four or five different types of snoring that you might never have known the human body could produce.

4. Lakes

Fig. 5: Just to the left (off frame) is the Jet d'Eau of Geneva. It is a giant jet of water that sprays high into the air and then falls back into the lake. As you will note, the people seem to be wetter and wetter the further down the walkway they are. Neville (in green) is fairly dry. Jens (off frame to the far end of the walkway) was not so lucky.

Geneva and Lausanne are both located on the shores of beautiful Lac Léman (Lake Geneva in English). During the summer, the lakes get up to about 70-75 degrees and are thus perfect for swimming. Unfortunately, for the second straight summer I wasn't able to swim as much as I would have liked, so I guess I have something to look forward to next year.

5. Cheese

Fig. 6: An outdoor fondue party with the labmates (and friends)! Cheese can be enjoyed just about anywhere.

My love of cheese is really no secret. I think that almost everyone who's come by the Hotel SanGiorgio has had fondue, but fondue is really only the tip of the iceberg. There's also raclette -- cheese melted over an open fire, then scraped onto plates and served with potatoes; croûte au fromage -- a piece of toast covered with cheese, an egg, tomato, maybe some ham, and broiled until golden brown; gratin savoyard -- a baked cheese and potato dish; tomme vaudoise -- basically just a piece of cheese thrown into the oven; malakoff -- a local specialty of Luins (or Vinzel, depending on who you ask) which is the culinary ancestor of the Denny's Mozzarella stick. I could go on and on and on. Really.

6. Public Radio

Switzerland, like most civilized countries, has "Brodcaster Fees." Basically, if you have a TV or Radio -- or anything that could conceivably possibly be used to receive TV or Radio signals, like an mp3 player or a car -- you have to pay a monthly Broadcaster Fee that goes (somewhat indirectly) to the government. The negative side of this is that every household pays about 40 CHF a month for TV and Radio before they ever pay a cable company or satellite provider. On the positive side, this means that there are incredible public television stations and that, for the most part, there are very few commercials.

I don't have a TV yet (I'm thinking about getting one, maybe), but I do listen to a lot of radio when I'm home. In addition to news and music, there are a bunch of weird programs I try to catch. In one, Drôles d'histoires, the host reads interesting short stories and poetry. In another, Aqua Concert, a couple of old guys play classical music while giving information and background for each piece (usually in the form of a fake caller in a phony local dialet requesting a particular favorite). And finally, there are the private channels, including the all euro-dance all the time NRJ (pronounced "energy") and my favorite, Radio Lac. Radio Lac plays the hits of yesterday and today, and by hits, they mean hits. I've heard Bryan Adam's "Everything I do" at least 4 times.

7. Trains

Swiss trains are notorious for being on time -- which for the most part they are -- but, to me, the most incredible thing is the density of the network. You can take the train absolutely anywhere. In addition to the national train system (CFF), there are a number of private lines (all train lines share common ticketing) and plenty of gondolas, funiculars, and assorted cog trains.

Then, of course, there are the special trains. There's the Train du Chocolat (mentioned here before) which takes you to a chocolate factory; the Train des Vignes, which takes you through the historic vineyards near Lausanne; the Train Fondue, where you enjoy an authentic fondue while going through the Gruyère region -- again, the list just goes on and on. And, if a train doesn't go to that little mountain village you want to see, there's always ...

8. Buses

A network of long-distances buses, called Cars Postaux connect even the tiniest towns in Switzerland to each other. Run by the Post Office, the buses are the modern remnants of the mail wagons of old and thus go pretty much anywhere that the Post Office does. Recently, I went on a hike in the mountains (more on that later, maybe) which started at the miniscule town of Griesalp (population: like, a couple hundred). Griesalp is notable for being at the end of the "steepest postbus route in Switzerland." As a normal bus would not be able to navigate the extremely narrow and twisty road, we had to switch to a special bus for the final part of the route.

Fig. 7: Man, is Xzibit around here somewhere? Did someone throw some dubs on that whip?

As big an advocate for public transportation as I am, even I have to admit that maybe this is a little much.

9. Jars that become cups

If you buy Nutella, or mustard, or jam, you can almost always get it in a little glass jar that magically becomes a cup when you are done! I know that this isn't too incredible and that it's even possible that we have this technology as well in the US, but lately it has become quite useful. I've found that simple glass cups are excellent replacements for fragile, easily broken wine glasses.

10. My niece, Veronica

This has nothing to do with Switzerland, but you try coming up with a list this long. Besides, I just wanted an excuse to put up some pictures of my adorable, bald-headed, beautiful niece who I just saw for the first time last month during my visit home. Enjoy!

Fig. 8: "It's hard to be discreet when the Playskool watch plays peek-a-boo to sleeve." My niece, definition of a roller.

Fig. 9: Who loves ya, baby?

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